What to Do When Your Electrical Panel Cannot Support a Remodel

The Circuit Breaker That Breaks Your Budget

You are deep into planning your kitchen remodel. New appliances are picked out, the layout is finalized, and your contractor is about to start. Then the electrician delivers the news: your electrical panel does not have enough capacity to support the new design. That 100-amp panel that has been running your home for 30 years simply cannot handle a modern kitchen with an induction range, double wall ovens, a dishwasher, garbage disposal, and under-cabinet lighting on top of everything else your home already draws.

This is one of the most common hidden costs in Bay Area home remodeling. It is also one of the most predictable, if you know what to look for.

Why Older Panels Cannot Keep Up

The 100-Amp Problem

From the 1950s through the 1980s, most Bay Area homes were built with 100-amp electrical service. At the time, this was perfectly adequate. Homes had gas ranges, gas water heaters, gas furnaces, and relatively few electrical appliances beyond lights, a television, and a few small kitchen appliances.

Today’s homes demand far more from their electrical systems. Consider what a modern household might include:

• Induction cooktop: 40-50 amps
• Double wall ovens: 40-50 amps
• Electric vehicle charger (Level 2): 40-50 amps
• HVAC system: 30-50 amps
• Electric water heater: 30 amps
• Washer and dryer: 30 amps
• Kitchen circuits (dishwasher, disposal, refrigerator, small appliances): 40+ amps

Add those up and you quickly exceed 200 amps, let alone 100. And that is before counting lighting, computers, home entertainment systems, and other baseline loads.

Safety Concerns with Certain Panel Brands

Some older panels present safety risks beyond capacity limitations. Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) Stab-Lok panels and Zinsco panels, both widely installed in Bay Area homes from the 1960s through the 1980s, have documented failure rates where breakers do not trip when they should. This creates fire risk. If your home has either of these panel types, replacement is recommended regardless of whether you are remodeling.

The Electrification Trend

California is moving aggressively toward building electrification. The 2025 California Energy Code requires new construction and major remodels to include electric-ready infrastructure for cooking, water heating, space heating, and clothes drying. Even if you install gas appliances today, the wiring for future electric appliances must be in place. This means your electrical panel needs capacity for loads that may not exist yet but will need to be accommodated.

Add an EV charger to the mix (a virtual necessity for Bay Area homeowners), and the case for a panel upgrade becomes unavoidable.

What to Do Step by Step

Step 1: Determine Your Current Panel Capacity

Open your electrical panel (the metal box, usually in the garage, laundry room, or exterior wall) and look at the main breaker at the top. It will be labeled with an amperage rating, typically 100, 125, 150, or 200 amps. This number represents the maximum amount of electrical current your home can draw at one time.

Also note the panel brand and the number of available breaker slots. A full panel with no open slots will need either a sub-panel or a complete replacement.

Step 2: Get an Electrical Load Calculation

Before deciding on a panel size, your electrician should perform an electrical load calculation. This calculation adds up all the existing and planned electrical loads in your home to determine the minimum panel size required by code.

The load calculation considers:

• General lighting and receptacle loads (based on square footage)
• Kitchen and laundry circuits (fixed values per code)
• HVAC equipment
• All fixed appliances (range, oven, water heater, dryer)
• Any special loads (EV charger, hot tub, pool equipment, workshop)

The result tells you whether a 200-amp panel is sufficient or whether you need a 320-amp or 400-amp service.

Step 3: Plan the Upgrade

A standard panel upgrade involves several components:

The panel itself: A new 200-amp panel with 40 to 42 breaker spaces costs $300 to $800 for the equipment. The panel should be a major brand (Square D, Siemens, Eaton) with readily available breakers.

The service entrance: The conduit and wiring from the utility meter to the panel may need to be upgraded to handle the larger service. If your current service entrance uses old SE cable or undersized conduit, it will be replaced.

The meter socket: PG&E may require a new meter socket that is compatible with their current equipment. This socket is installed on the exterior of your home.

The grounding system: Current code requires a grounding electrode system that may not exist in older homes. Your electrician will install or upgrade the ground rods and bonding connections.

Step 4: Coordinate with PG&E

This is the step that catches many homeowners off guard. PG&E must be involved in any panel upgrade because they own the meter and the service connection from the street.

The process works like this:

1. Your electrician submits a service upgrade application to PG&E
2. PG&E reviews the application and schedules a disconnect date (4-8 weeks out)
3. On disconnect day, PG&E removes the meter and cuts power
4. Your electrician installs the new panel, service entrance, and meter socket
5. The city inspector approves the installation
6. PG&E returns to install a new meter and restore power

Your home will be without power for part of this process. Most electricians can complete the panel swap in one day if the work is straightforward. PG&E’s reconnection may happen the same day or the following day, depending on scheduling.

Start the PG&E application as early as possible. The 4-8 week wait for scheduling is the biggest timeline factor in a panel upgrade and can delay your remodel if not planned for.

Step 5: Pass Inspection

After the panel is installed and PG&E has restored power, the city inspector verifies the work meets code. The inspector checks:

• Proper panel mounting and clearances (36 inches of clear space in front, per code)
• Correct wire sizing for the main breaker and individual circuits
• Proper grounding and bonding
• Labeling of all circuits
• AFCI and GFCI protection where required by current code

If the inspection passes, your permit is finalized and you are ready to proceed with the rest of your remodel.

Cost Breakdown

Here is what to expect for panel upgrade costs in the Bay Area:

Component	Cost Range
200-amp panel (equipment)	$300-$800
Labor for panel swap	$1,500-$3,000
Service entrance upgrade	$500-$2,000
Meter socket replacement	$200-$500
Permit and inspection fees	$200-$500
PG&E fees (if applicable)	$0-$500
Total: Standard 200-amp upgrade	$3,000-$5,000
Total: With service entrance work	$5,000-$8,000
Total: 400-amp service upgrade	$8,000-$15,000

All pricing is approximate, reflects 2026 Bay Area market conditions, and is subject to change. Every project is unique. Final costs are determined on a project-by-project basis during our design phase.

How to Prevent Panel Problems

Check Panel Capacity Before Designing

The easiest way to avoid a panel surprise is to check capacity before finalizing your remodel design. A 15-minute look at your existing panel by a licensed electrician can tell you whether an upgrade is likely.

Plan for Future Loads

If you are upgrading your panel, size it for where your home is going, not just where it is today. An EV charger, a future ADU, or a home battery system all need capacity. Upgrading to 200 amps now when you might need 400 amps in five years costs less than upgrading twice.

Consider a Load Management System

Modern electrical panels and smart load management devices can help maximize the use of a given panel size. These systems monitor real-time loads and can temporarily reduce or cycle non-critical circuits (like EV charging) when high-priority loads (like cooking) are active. This technology can sometimes eliminate the need for a 400-amp upgrade.

When to Call a Professional

Call a licensed electrician if you notice any of these signs:

• Breakers trip frequently, especially when running multiple appliances
• Lights dim when large appliances start
• Warm or discolored breakers
• Burning smell near the panel
• Your panel uses fuses instead of breakers
• Your panel is a Federal Pacific or Zinsco brand
• You are planning any remodel that adds electrical load

A qualified electrician can assess your panel’s condition and capacity in a single visit and provide a clear recommendation.

Why Custom Home Design and Build

Electrical panel capacity is one of the first things we evaluate during Phase 1 of our design-build process. Before we finalize any remodel design, we verify that the home’s electrical system can support the planned work. If a panel upgrade is needed, it is included in the project scope and budget from the beginning.

Our team coordinates with PG&E early in the project timeline, so the panel upgrade does not become a bottleneck during construction. We also design the electrical layout with future needs in mind, including EV charging, electrification-ready appliances, and smart home systems.

Because we manage the entire project, there is no gap between the electrician’s work, the city’s inspections, and PG&E’s service coordination. Everything is sequenced and managed under one project plan.

Reach out today to start planning your remodel with a team that thinks ahead.